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shì

氏

ér

而

bǎo

饱

，

bì

必

shǐ

使

jiā

家

chú

厨

wǎng

往

bǐ

彼

zào

灶

gū

觚

，

zhí

执

dì

弟

zǐ

子

zhī

之

lǐ

礼

。

sì

四

shí

十

nián

年

lái

来

，

pǒ

颇

jí

集

zhòng

众

měi

美

。

yǒu

有

xué

学

jiù

就

zhě

者

，

yǒu

有

shí

十

fēn

分

zhōng

中

dé

得

liù

六

qī

七

zhě

者

，

yǒu

有

jǐn

仅

dé

得

èr

二

sān

三

zhě

者

，

yì

亦

yǒu

有

jìng

竟

shī

失

chuán

传

zhě

者

。

yú

余

dōu

都

wèn

问

qí

其

fāng

方

lüè

略

，

jí

集

ér

而

cún

存

zhī

之

。

suī

虽

bù

不

shèn

甚

shěng

省

jì

记

，

yì

亦

zài

载

mǒu

某

jiā

家

mǒu

某

wèi

味

，

yǐ

以

zhì

志

jǐng

景

xíng

行

。

zì

自

jué

觉

hào

好

xué

学

zhī

之

xīn

心

，

lǐ

理

yí

宜

rú

如

shì

是

。

suī

虽

sǐ

死

fǎ

法

bù

不

zú

足

yǐ

以

xiàn

限

shēng

生

chú

厨

，

míng

名

shǒu

手

zuò

作

shū

书

，

yì

亦

duō

多

chū

出

rù

入

，

wèi

未

kě

可

zhuān

专

qiú

求

zhī

之

yú

于

gù

故

zhǐ

纸

；

rán

然

néng

能

lǜ

率

yóu

由

；

rì

日

zhāng

章

，

zhōng

终

yuán

元

dà

大

miù

谬

，

lín

临

shí

时

zhì

治

jù

具

，

yì

亦

yì

易

zhǐ

指

míng

名

。

huò

或

yuē

曰

“

rén

人

xīn

心

bù

不

tóng

同

，

gè

各

rú

如

qí

其

miàn

面

。

子

néng

能

bì

必

tiān

天

xià

下

zhī

之

kǒu

口

，

jiē

皆

子

zhī

之

kǒu

口

hū

乎

”

yuē

曰

“

zhí

执

kē

柯

yǐ

以

fá

伐

kē

柯

，

qí

其

zé

则

bù

不

yuǎn

远

。

wú

吾

suī

虽

bù

不

néng

能

qiáng

强

tiān

天

xià

下

zhī

之

kǒu

口

yǔ

与

wú

吾

tóng

同

shì

嗜

，

ér

而

gū

姑

qiě

且

tuī

推

jǐ

己

jí

及

wù

物

；

zé

则

shí

食

yǐn

饮

suī

虽

wēi

微

，

ér

而

wú

吾

yú

于

zhōng

忠

shù

恕

zhī

之

dào

道

，

zé

则

yǐ

已

jǐn

尽

yǐ

矣

。

wú

吾

hé

何

hàn

憾

zāi

哉

”

ruò

若

fú

夫

《

shuō

说

fú

郛

》

suǒ

所

zài

载

yǐn

饮

shí

食

zhī

之

shū

书

sān

三

shí

十

yú

余

zhǒng

种

，

méi

眉

gōng

公

。

lì

笠

wēng

翁

，

yì

亦

yǒu

有

chén

陈

yán

言

。

céng

曾

qīn

亲

shì

试

zhī

之

，

jiē

皆

kuò

阔

yú

于

bí

鼻

ér

而

zhē

蜇

yú

于

kǒu

口

，

dà

大

bàn

半

lòu

陋

rú

儒

fù

附

huì

会

，

wú

吾

wú

无

qǔ

取

yān

焉

。

诗人美周公而日“笾豆有践”，恶凡伯而曰“彼疏斯稗”。
古之于饮食也若是重乎？他若《易》称“鼎烹”，《书》称“盐梅”，《乡党》、《内则》琐琐言之。
孟子虽贱“饮食之人”，而又言饥渴未能得饮食之正。
可见凡事须求一是处，都非易言。
《中庸》曰：“人莫不饮食也，鲜能知味也。
”《典论》日：“一世长者知居处，三世长者知服食。
”古人进离肺，皆有法焉，未尝苟且。
“子与人歌而善，必使反之，而后和之。
”圣人于一艺之微，其善取于人也如是。
余雅慕此旨，每食于某氏而饱，必使家厨往彼灶觚，执弟子之礼。
四十年来，颇集众美。
有学就者，有十分中得六七者，有仅得二三者，亦有竟失传者。
余都问其方略，集而存之。
虽不甚省记，亦载某家某味，以志景行。
自觉好学之心，理宜如是。
虽死法不足以限生厨，名手作书，亦多出入，未可专求之于故纸；然能率由；日章，终元大谬，临时治具，亦易指名。
或曰：“人心不同，各如其面。
子能必天下之口，皆子之口乎？”曰：“执柯以伐柯，其则不远。
吾虽不能强天下之口与吾同嗜，而姑且推己及物；则食饮虽微，而吾于忠恕之道，则已尽矣。
吾何憾哉！”若夫《说郛》所载饮食之书三十余种，眉公。
笠翁，亦有陈言。
曾亲试之，皆阔于鼻而蜇于口，大半陋儒附会，吾无取焉。

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